Fashion designers

Haute couture had its beginnings in the mid-nineteenth century. Until that time dress-maker or tailor designers had controlled the design and production of ladies’ garments, creating one ensemble for one individual client. France and particularly Paris, was the source for haute couture. In French, the word “couture” means sewing: a “couturier” is a male tailor or dressmaker. In haute couture, models are created by the designer, bear his or her name and are protected by copyright from reproduction. An haute couture establishment, therefore is a first class designing and dressmaking concern.

The first haute couturier was Charles Frederick Worth. In 1840s he became the first couturier of France, a position he held until his death. The years 1905-18 were dominated by the most colourful personality of the world couture at that time, Paul Poiret. Poiret’s clothes were simple in line, yet feminine and exotic. Many of his designs were based on eastern themes: harem skirts, kimonos, gold fabrics, fur trimmings and Persian embroideries.

Immediately after the First World War, designers such as Lanvin and Patou became active. Lanvin gowns were elegant, made from beautiful fabrics such as gold and silver materials. Jean Patou was particularly noted for his return to a natural waistline and longer skirts.

The years 1920-39 became great ones for haute couture. The return to femininity was helped by the innovations of the famous designers Madeleine Vionnet and Gabriel Chanel. Vionnet believed that the feminine figure was very important to successful designs and couture and that the natural form should not be disgusted or distorted. Many of her designs were draped classical gowns. Typical were her day dresses and skirts of heavy crêpe, while for evening she used sheer fabrics which would float and drape; such designs were especially typical of Vionnet in the thirties.

Coco Chanel was a legend in the world of couture. In the 1920s she introduced casual looking, comfortable wear which was ultra chic. Her easy-to-wear suits became a wardrobe classic, made of soft tweeds or jersey wool and consisting of a plain or pleated straight short skirt, a jersey top and a jacket, which was often collarless. She also designed simple dresses and skirts, all with great care and attention to detail. She made wool a dress fabric; often it was plain, but jackets usually had a silk or quilted lining to match the blouse or jumper. The Chanel figure was slim and straight.

Chanel creations were deceptively simple in appearance but great attention was paid to cut and length. Trimming was limited to carefully chosen fancy buttons and edging. The double string, long necklace of pearls or amber, the lapel pin, the earrings, the bracelets and pendants were essential parts of Chanel ensemble setting off the plain garments.